Scratchy Needs Technical Assistance. Stat

#21

Nice mate.

Is that a WD green drive? Just a bit of general advice if it is, they are perfectly capable storage drives but you’ll want a 7200rpm drive as a minimum for a boot drive, it will sharpen up the boot times and make apps load a bit quicker in general. Not a big deal though.

I’m guessing your old DVD drive had the IDE ribbon cable instead of SATA, I forget some people still rock the old school stuff, haha.

Hopefully you work out the case fans easily enough. Simply, if they are connected to power, they should work. Unless the case has some specific fan controller which I doubt, if the fans aren’t working it could only mean that they aren’t plugged in.

#22

Yea the previous dvd driver was IDE, took me acouple of hours to figure out that it simply wouldnt connect to the board :tongue2:. Well the guys at GoComp put the board, cpu and ram in so they should have taken care of the fans, however i went back to AusComp (same company apparently) and said the guys at GoComp didnt put the fans in the right socket, so he reckons he fixed the issue but he didnt… fan still doesnt work

By the looks of that screenshot, it seems theres something wrong with the harddrive. I tried updating them but it says something like ‘windows can not find the solution / driver’… i think it is a problem because its slowing some of the installation programs and when transferring files between C and D drive… funny thing is its still faster than the AM2 without problems lol

#23

I think you need to download the USB 3 driver off the ASUS website, or off the driver installation disk that came with the motherboard, it doesn’t look like it has been done.

That PCI Simple Communications Controller will disappear after you install the “Intel Management Engine Interface” which you can get under utilities in the download section for your motherboard. I think it’s one of those features that people never use, so it doesn’t matter if you install it or not, USB is a bit more essential.

#24

thanks nipper, worked like a charm… for some reason i thought i already installed those 2 drivers from the cd that came with it, but obviously didnt because it fixed it

Im starting to regret only upgrading half the computer. PSU, the harddrive and GPU (from the old pc) will slow the system down correct? well i mean will stop the i5, 8gb ram and new mobo from reaching its full potential. I finally install sc2 on the pc 2 hours ago, and have played 2 games, in both rounds the pc suddenly shutsdown within 10minutes… then turns back on in less than 2 seconds. I have checked all the cables and they are all in correctly (to my knowledge) my guess is the PSU is struggling to power the new intel gear. im going to buy a new PSU tomorow (coolmaster, 700wt or so for around $90) but if that doesnt fix it i definitely have a problem :mad2:

edit… the PSU has been making ALOT more noise ever since in the intel compared to the am2. can a psu lose wattage after 2-3 years? it is a no brand psu btw

#25

I hate using unheard of branded PSUs in any system, I avoid them as when they go, they can take some of the system with it. Get something from a reputable brand, it’s one thing you never want to skimp on.

Look up some reviews of the PSU you want and see if it still satisfies you, you’ll probably find that you’ll need to spend more like $130 to get a genuinely solid ~700W capable PSU. Other alternatives are to get something a bit smaller, a 600W PSU will be plenty. Many of the cheaper PSUs will fall over when they start approaching their stated max output.

Make sure your CPU is not overheating, this will also cause shutdowns to prevent the CPU from heat damage. If you want a cheap GPU upgrade, Az has a 6870 which will be a massive upgrade from what you are running.

#26

Pick a Corsair/Thermaltake/Coolermaster/Seasonic/Antec over $100 (>500w). For the parts your interested in, these PSU’s will be fine.

CX500
Truepower 550
Coolermaster GX 650 etc

#27

the pc turning off is either heat related or power… id say heat tbh. If you havent got it, download coretemp and install/run it to check cpu temps. Open ccc to check gpu temps - how high they are idling etc

as said above, yum-cha psu’s will fail … and happily take all your gear with them. The best move is to bin it and spend the $100-150 on a decent one.

#28

it only has crashed while in game, so i didnt want to run any game until i find the problem… but these are the temp results when just installing programs, watching movies & going on the web… they look fine to me… the gpu temp is at 24

#29

something like a corsair TX-650W rv2 for like $115 is a good cheap option

#30

Your idle temps are fine, you can probably assume that the heatsink is mounted well. You can even run W7’s own system benchmark whilst having coretemp open to see how high they get. Look for “Performance Information and Tools” in the control panel, or just right click on Computer and select properties from the drop down menu.

#31

Ended up getting the Coolermaster GX650W PSU. And its a beauty, makes no noise…

#32

Its pretty nice. Appearance wise, don’t like how the side is a big glossy sticker.

You should be happy, its a really reliable PSU. Never had one faulty.

#33

Has it fixed your stability issues?

#34

yes, played about 10+ rounds on sc2 with the new psu and has not shutdown once. Time to start reading up on how to overclock the cpu, i was think to about 3.9ghz

#35

Awesome work.

Yeah, certainly a good possibility to hit ~4.00GHz on your CPU. Keeping it cool is the only thing to worry about (other than keeping voltages down). They are a nice, easy CPU to over clock.

Make sure you do read up on it though, it will help you immensely and you may even find out you have a new hobby.

Here’s a guide that will help you.

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html

From what I remember from playing around with a 2600K, all you really need to worry about is setting the CPU (Turbo) multiplier up, and setting the system voltages to a reasonable level. Everything else can be left alone, you don’t even need to touch the base clock. The RAM multiplier should allow you to set your RAM at its recommended speed (thinking it was 1600MHZ for you), then you can manually set the RAM timings, or just leave them on auto as it makes very little difference in real world performance (Type of thing to play around with only if you can be bothered).

#36

I downloaded a different temperature monitoring program today and noticed something disturbing, well by the looks of things speedfan is saying my CPU temp is around the 80C mark (which is too high right?) SHould I be concerned at all or should I just be looking at the 30c down the bottom (core 0 and 1)

#37

The core temperatures are what matters, ignore that CPU temp in speedfan, the bottom temps that you can see are correct for idle temperatures.

You need to put your CPU under full load to see the temperatures rise. Use something like Prime 95, here’s a guide.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/prime95/prime95.html

#38

Ok ill do that stress test overnight

Hope these temps are ok when on full load, on a few forums they recommend the i5 to stay under 80c so i think my cpu fan is doing wonders

#39

Yep, your temps looks fairly nice under moderate load. My guess is that at 100% load, you’ll still be a good chunk away from 80’C on each core.

#40

80 would be a little concerning. Here is a pic of a build from work today, with same CPU as you.

2500K, Gigabyte OC 6950, Coolermaster 922.

This case has plenty of airflow, so this may have been a factor versus your beigebox.

Computer was on for 1 hour to get a normalized temperature, then the temperature measured for a few hours. Average 61 C.

I suspect you may have cooling issues if you get to 80